Step #2: Cut the Brass to the Right Size
Commutator in DC Motor
I cut the brass to the right size and drilled a hole in one end. The motors axle will fitted in here. A small threaded hole at the side allowed me to use a screw to hold both axles in place.
I dremeled four groves in brass axle deep enough for the wires to fit and not stick out more then the diameter of the axle. The wire does have insolation which can be squished a bit but try to dremel the grove deep enough.
Then I slipped the smaller plastic tube over the axle and marked where I wanted the wires to come out. I also temporarily slip on the bearings and O-rings to get the right spacing and position.
I also marked which groves goes with which hole. My groves were not evenly spaced so I wanted to make sure that the marked hole will go with the right groves.
Step #3: Cut the Smaller Piece of Plastic Tubbing
I cut the smaller piece of plastic tubbing so that it would fit all four ball bearings plus O-rings that go between them. The rubber O-rings prevent the bearings to ever touch each other. Then one by one I stuck a piece of wire with just a bit of uninsulated wire through.
I had to make sure that a bit of the insulates was sticking out to. Then I placed the O-ring and then slowly pushed the ball bearing over the wire. I ground a small grove in the inside of the bearing for the wire to have a bit of space. So make sure the grove and the wire are aligned.
Then I slowly pushed the axle in. Now it was helpful that I marked which grove goes with which wire because I was a bit scared to cut the insulation. This would be dangerous because power would run through the axle all over the place!
Step #4: Connection to any Power Cable
Outside Plastic Tube
I took the bigger piece of plastic tubbing slipped and marked where I needed the threaded holes to go.
I used small steal screws and cut of their heads after I screwed them in tight.
I also ground a bit of the inside of the tube away so that it would fit better with the motor. My motor had round part sticking out.
After grinding the tube it then gave me a tight fit and prevented the tube from moving around too much.
I used terminal block to create a safe connection to any power cable that I wanted to attach to the slip ring connector.
Step #5: See the Finished Connector
Slip Ring Connector in Motor
Here you can see the finished connector.
For a project I wanted to have fluorescent light tubes turn while they were powered up.
I needed four wires connecting the ballast with the tubes.
I used a lot of O-rings in different places.
I wanted to be sure that no wires gets slowly worn out, cut or any uninsulated wire could be accidentally touched.
This is a how to make a slip ring connector using ball bearings.
Bonus: Want To Make Your Own Made Slip Ring? Here’s Other Guide:
Now I’d like to hear from you
There you have it: my 5-step process for diy slip rings.
Now I’d like to hear what you have to say:
Have you tried to make a slip ring power connector before?
If so, how did it go?
Let me know by email right now.